General FAQ's

No. Clear coatings do not provide long-lasting protection from ultra violet light.
  • 1.) Order several samples of stain.
  • 2.) Mix these samples up very well prior to sampling.
  • 3.) Test the samples out on a large area and use the same number of coats and application technique as you plan on using for the actual application process.
  • 5.) Verify the stain color is correct during the initial stages of stain application.
  • 6.) “Box” all pails of stain.
  • 7.) Periodically stir the pails of stain during the application process.
  • 1.) Locate your home on a site that affords some protection from the elements.
  • 2.) Construct roof overhangs that are 2-3 feet wide.
  • 3.) Keep the bottom course of logs at least 18 inches above the ground.
  • 4.) Find a log home supplier who uses a good design for the joints between his logs.
  • 5.) Apply a wood preservative to the logs.
  • 6.) Make sure that the exterior finishing products are compatible with each other.
  • 7.) Make sure that the wood is clean and dry before any finishing products are applied.
We recommend media blasting beecause it is non-toxic and does a very good job of removing stains and cleaning logs. Additionally, interior water damage is not a problem because no water is used during the process.
Media blasting is similar to traditional sand blasting but is less destructive to the surface of the wood because the media is less abrasive and typically non-toxic and biodegradable.
Power washing can create an undesirable surface texture which can be described as a felting and fuzzing effect. It is necessary to take precautions to protect the interior of your home from water damage prior to the process. Once the process is complete, you must allow the logs to dry before applying any stain.

Bleaching products can often reduce or remove discolorations.

Notes: Test the different types of bleach in the following order: sodium percarbonate, household chlorine bleach and then oxalic acid.
Use a moisture meter prior to the application of any finishing products. The moisture content of the logs should be below 20%.

Chinking & Log Caulking FAQ's

Log chinking is an elastic sealing material that has a coarse surface which is designed to look like old fashioned mortar and is used with backer rod on larger joints. Log home caulking is a highly elastic sealing material that has either a smooth or textured finish and is mainly used on smaller joints such as log corners, saddle notches or homes that are designed as “chinkless style homes”. Log home caulking in general is designed to be used in areas where the joint to be sealed is too shallow to allow room for backing material.
It is best to apply a stain that is compatible with the chinking first. The stain acts as a primer for the chinking and normally improves the overall adhesion of the chinking material. Additionally, it makes the clean up process for the chinking material much easier.
Trowels help seat material against wood for a tighter seal and a stronger bond.
At some point you will probably need to caulk or chink your log home. You can not stop logs from moving.
It is difficult to keep maintenance coats of stain off the existing chinking material. The stain can be brushed on by hand in an attempt to keep it off the chinking, but this can be very time consuming. Simply paint over the chink line to restore the original color of the chinking.
Yes. All Weatherall stains will wet-out and adhere to most chinking and caulking products.
No. If the chinking material is properly installed, there should be very little maintenance work down the road.

The entire process is rather easy. Begin with a clean surface. Gun the new chinking material over the torn area, and tool the new chinking material onto the old chinking material. The old and new chinking material should bond together.Watch our video to learn how to repair your chinking!

Note: This situation usually occurs because of an improper application or because a few large logs have settled.

Log Home Stain FAQ's

A good log home stain should last between 2-3 years on the southern exposure of the home and 3-4 years on the other sides of the home.
Oil based stains have a strong odor and require the use of solvents during the clean-up process. Oil-based stains create a poor surface for adhesion of caulking and chinking. Water based stain products are environmentally friendly and UV stable. They work in conjunction with water based sealants, have a low VOC and are easy to clean up.
  • 1.) Make sure your logs are clean and sound.
  • 2.) Make sure the surface temperature of the logs are between 50-90 degrees.
  • 3.) Make sure the weather forecast is dry for two days during the staining process and dry for a two days after the staining process.
  • 4.) Make sure the moisture content of the wood is below 20% prior to the staining process.
  • 5.) Make sure that you don’t have any compatibility problems with any previously applied coatings.
  • 6.) Read all of the application guidelines for the stain material that is being applied.
  • 7.) Recommendation: Use a sprayer to flood the surface of the logs with the stain material and then immediately back brush the stain into the pores of the wood.
Yes. All of Weatherall’s stain products have a standard amount of mildewcide in them. We recommend adding an additional mildewcide packet if you live in an area that is prone to high humidity and high temperatures. We sell a mildewcide additive called Stayclean I/E.
Yes. All products may be used on the interior, but Weatherall suggests applying 2-3 coats of Log Guard Interior clear for added protection from cleaners and detergents.
Two HEAVY coats of UV Guard stain are recommended.
One coat of UV Guard clear is recommended after the UV Guard stain has been applied.
The stain has a combination of pigments and UV-absorbers while the clear coat only has UV-absorbers.
The loss of sheen or variations in sheen is an indication that another coat of UV Guard clear should be applied to your home.