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Sashco Stain Guide

How do I finish my log home?

Short Answer
a) Make sure the log surfaces are really clean and free of any unsound, loose wood fibers.
b) Make sure the moisture content of the logs is below 20% before applying anything to them – and verify this with a moisture meter. (Depending on your location, this may need to be much lower.)
c) Always apply the products to be used in good weather and to logs that have a surface temperature above 40F degrees but below 95F degrees.
d) Apply Penetreat.
e) Apply the stain.
f) Apply the backer rod and caulking or chinking.
g) Maintain your home! This step is often skipped (along with steps a and b) and is one of the most important!

Long Answer
STEP 1 – Strip the logs.
The best overall method for stripping log structures is media blasting using crushed glass or corn cob media.  Do note that media blasting of any kind needs to be very carefully done in order to avoid excessive texturing and/or “felting” (fuzzing) of the wood. This is especially true if there is a lot of old, stubborn stain or paint left on the wood. If there is only a little of the old stain or paint in place, then the main issue is removing dirty, weathered, unsound surface wood that has been degraded by sun and water.

You can also choose to power wash your home if media blasting is either cost prohibitive or a machine is not available in your area. Power washing should create significant “felting” of the wood if done properly.

And, of course, in either case, all felting needs to be removed either by sanding, Osborn Brush grinding, or otherwise.

STEP 2 – Apply Penetreat.
Penetreat is a borate-based wood preservative that helps prevent rot, mold and mildew and just so happens to also work as an insect repellent against most types of insects. It should be applied to a damp or wet surface and allowed to thoroughly dry (below 20% moisture content level!) before moving on to the next step.

STEP 3 – Stain your home.
Staining should begin no later than 2 weeks after stripping and Penetreat application. Why so soon? Bare wood exposed to the sun for as little as 5 days before being stained can become degraded enough to cause more unsound wood, which was removed when you power washed or media blasted. This wood will eventually fall off your logs and, when it does so, it will take any stain right with it. So, it is best to try and avoid getting any of that unsound wood built up in the first place.

Be sure to thoroughly mix your stain before beginning. The best way to mix is to take a squirrel cage mixer attached to the end of a drill and mix away. Be sure to scrape all settled pigments off the bottom of the bucket to ensure it’s thoroughly mixed. Continue mixing throughout staining – mixing just at the beginning of staining but not during can allow those pigments to settle again. You will also want to be sure and box stain of different lot numbers to ensure color consistency.

Stain should be applied with any airless paint sprayer with a large tip and then back brushed into the wood.  It’s best to work as a team – one person spraying a small area with stain while the other person follows right behind and vigorously back brushes the stain into the wood. Allow the stain to dry for at least 6 hours (in ideal weather – longer in weather that is cooler or more humid) before going back with the second coat.

If you must brush on the stain, make sure you are still following the coverage guidelines given in the data tec application instructions. For example, if the coverage guidelines state that you should be getting 150-300 sq. ft. per gallon and you’re getting 400 sq. ft., it’s most likely not being applied heavily enough and another brushed on coat may be necessary.

If applying Cascade, this can simply be sprayed on with any runs being brushed out. It is not necessary to back brush Cascade into the wood.

STEP 4 – Insert backer rod where needed.
Any chinking or caulking that is to be done will need to have backer rod behind it. Insert backer rod into all of these areas.

STEP 5 – Apply any chinking or caulking
Apply chinking or caulking where necessary or desired and tool it so that it is flat against the top and bottom of the joint.  Be sure that you’re applying it correctly – not too thin and not too thick – and be sure that it has plenty of warm weather time to cure. If possible, don’t apply chinking or caulking in direct sunlight, as this could cause vapor bubbles to form under the surface of the product that will later have to be popped and repaired. In addition, it shouldn’t be applied in weather that is below 40 degrees or will get down below 40 degrees within 4-5 days after chinking / caulking, as this could cause the product to freeze.

In general, all checks and cracks larger than ¼” should be caulked to seal out weather and cold air. This is especially important on the upward-facing curve of the log.

If chinking, make sure that your chink joint is at least 15% of the log diameter to ensure proper elasticity and performance. If you choose to go with a joint smaller than that, be aware that more maintenance will be required over time for any areas where significant movement is experienced.

STEP 6 – MAINTAIN YOUR HOME!!!
Be sure to go through your home and inspect it every spring and fall for any areas where the clear coat may be wearing off, the stain appears to be fading, etc. The best thing to do is to use our Inspection Guide as a checklist and simply maintain those areas that are looking more worn than others. This step is by far the least expensive but best cost-saving step you can take.