Permachink Product FAQs

How long does Perma-Chink last?

Perma-Chink has been around a long time. There are homes that had Perma-Chink applied to them over 20 years ago and the chinking is still in great shape. That’s not to say that Perma-Chink is the same product it was back in 1984. Since then, we have made numerous improvements to the formulation to increase adhesion to wood surfaces, improve elongation and flexibility and to make it easier to apply. Perma-Chink is the most widely used synthetic chinking in the world.

When should Perma-Chink be applied?

The best time to apply Perma-Chink is after the home has been stained but before the topcoat is applied. If you are using a professional applicator it may be difficult to schedule a return trip for the topcoat but it is often worth the effort. Perma-Chink is designed to adhere to stained wood. That’s not to say that it will not adhere well to a topcoat, it’s just that it adheres better to the stained wood. In addition, a topcoat over the chinking keeps it looking fresh and bright and easier to keep clean.

Why apply Perma-Chink after staining and not before?

No matter what method of application you use to stain your home you will probably get some stain on the chinking once it is already in place. On a new home it makes no sense to add another step in the process by having to mask off existing chinking or apply Chink Paint over new chinking. On an older home it is usually easier to Chink Paint the stained chinking than it is to protect the chinking with masking tape or some other device.

When am I ready to stain?

The first thing to do is to read the sections on surface preparation. Never attempt to apply stain to your home without first properly preparing the surface! Surface preparation is the most important step in the process. The next question is - do you have the proper tools for the job? Having good quality tools at your disposal gives you far better results and makes the job so much easier that it is foolish not to invest in them. LIFELINE stains and topcoats are formulated to be best applied with an airless sprayer using a 0.015 to 0.017 tip along with back-brushing. Although LIFELINE can be brush applied, it is more difficult to apply at the recommended application rate with a brush. We see more problems associated with heavily applied brush applications than we do with too thinly applied spray applications. Never attempt to apply LIFELINE stain with a pump-up compressed air sprayer! You will be very disappointed with the results. Even if you are going to use an airless sprayer you’ll still need brushes for back-brushing, touch up work, etc. Don’t buy cheap brushes! Good quality brushes like Purdy or Wooster brushes are well worth the price and end up giving you a much more attractive finish. LIFELINE stains are water-based which means that your brushes can be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water and, with a little care, can last many years. A brush extension for back-brushing high areas is also a handy device to have.

A paint mixer that fits into an electric drill is a good tool to use for making sure your stain and topcoat is adequately mixed prior to use. They are not expensive and make mixing a lot easier and quicker.

If you have areas to stain that are difficult to reach you will need some type of platform to stand on. When staining you never want to stop in the middle of a log (see How do I avoid lap marks?) It is extremely difficult if not impossible to reach an entire log from end to end from a single ladder. You can rent scaffolding or buy or rent ladder jacks and an aluminum plank to stand on. And get some ladder boots to avoid damaging the surface of the logs while you are staining.

The next thing you want to check is the weather. You don’t want to start staining if there is a chance of rain within 12 hours after completing the job. You also don’t want to stain a wall if it’s going to be in direct, hot sunlight during the staining process. If it’s a clear day and you are working on a south or west facing wall, start early in the morning before the sun starts beating on it. It’s better to work on a wall that’s a bit cool than it is on a wall that’s still hot from being exposed to the sun for most of the day. Although the labeled surface temperature range is between 40° F and 90° F, the most favorable temperature range for easiest application and best performance is 50° F to 80° F. Note that it’s surface temperature, not air temperature. It is the temperature of the logs that must be considered, not the temperature on the thermometer hanging on your porch. This is especially important up north during winter when you can get a nice warm February day but the logs are still frozen. You may need a few warm days before log temperatures reach the 40 degree range.

Do I need to use backing material behind the Perma-Chink?

One purpose of the backing material is to maintain a chinking thickness of about 3/8 of an inch. If the Perma-Chink is too thick, it will not stretch very well. Think of it as a thick rubber band. The thicker it is, the less it can stretch. If the Perma-Chink is too thin, the backing may show through or the chinking may tear. Another purpose for the backing is to maintain two point adhesion. You want the Perma-Chink to adhere to the logs on the top and bottom of the chink joint but not to the back of the joint itself. That way the Perma-Chink is free to stretch and contract as the logs expand and shrink.

Can I apply Perma-Chink right over cement or mortar chinking or bare wood?

If the mortar or cement is in good shape Perma-Chink can be applied over it but first cover the existing chinking with masking tape. It's better to use water-proof masking tape if you can find it. The same goes for applying Perma-Chink directly over wood. You need to separate the wood from the Perma-Chink with a layer of masking tape. If you apply Perma-Chink directly on top of the wood, the Perma-Chink will bond to the wood preventing it from elongating and contracting as the logs expand and contract. But leave the edges of the chink joint bare so the Perma-Chink can adhere to the top and bottom of the joint.

Why should I use Lifeline stains rather than something I can buy locally for a lot less money?

Log homes present a unique set of dynamics to an exterior finish system. As opposed to dimensional lumber, logs experience much more expansion and contraction, typically retain more moisture and on round logs, the upper surfaces weather more rapidly than the lower ones due to increased ultraviolet (UV) light exposure. Low cost, general purpose exterior wood finishes are designed to be applied to well seasoned or kiln dried dimensional lumber and plywood and are unable to cope with parameters presented by log homes.

A quality log home finish must:

• Prevent liquid water from entering the wood.
• Breathe in order to allow water vapor to escape from the wood. This is especially important if the logs are somewhat green or checks have developed that allowed water entry into the wood.
• Be flexible in order to stretch and contract without cracking.
• Prevent the formation of unsightly mold on the surface.
• Protect the underlying wood from degrading due to ultraviolet (UV) light.
• Withstand temperatures ranging from arctic cold to tropical heat.
• Be durable enough to withstand abrasion from wind, rain, snow, ice, etc.
• Be easy to apply.
• Look beautiful and maintain its appearance for many years.

Another factor to consider in this day and age is that any and all products should be kind to our environment.  When it comes to stains, one or two coat oil-based stains are at the bottom of the quality ladder. They are cheap to produce and are fairly inexpensive. They are often presented as “penetratingâ€� stains but since they do penetrate into the wood to some extent, they leave the surface without much protection. That’s why most manufacturers recommend additional coats every year or two. In addition, many oil-based products contain linseed oil, a wonderful food source for mold that turns the surface black over time. They also have low coverage rates, typically 100 to 200 square feet per gallon. They may be cheap but it takes a lot of product to stain a home.

A step up on the ladder are film-forming solvent-based finishes but their quality can range from low to moderate and some can be quite expensive. Like all oil/solvent-based systems, these products are suffering the consequences of Federal and State requirements for lower VOC (volatile organic content) levels and manufacturers are subsequently reducing the solvent content with a corresponding decrease in performance. Some of the better products no longer can be sold in many states. The biggest problem with these products is their inability to breathe and it is not unusual to see sheets of finish come off a wall due to water vapor trying to escape from the logs.

Over the past few years almost all new coating technology has been in water-based systems. This new technology has allowed the development of high quality products like our LIFELINE brand stains and topcoats that meet all of the requirements of a log home. Recent advances in polymers, UV light inhibitors and mildewcides have significantly improved the look and performance of water-based coating systems. However, for those manufacturers like Perma-Chink Systems willing to make the investment, this new technology is not cheap and these new high performance systems are costly. The one factor that alleviates the cost per gallon of LIFELINE is its ability to be applied at application rates ranging from 350 to 600 square feet per gallon, quite high in comparison to low cost products. Since our stains are film formers, they provide protection where it is needed the most, on the surface of the wood.

 The bottom line is a cheaply priced, low quality stain may end up costing almost as much as our LIFELINE system for the initial application (differences in coverage rate) and may last perhaps a year or two. In addition, once a low quality stain fails the wood quickly grays and unless the home is thoroughly cleaned down to bare wood, the gray will show through any subsequent coats of stain that are applied.

The cost per gallon of our LIFLINE system may be more than a low quality product but the higher coverage rate will probably make up most of the difference in total product cost. We guaranty that when properly applied the LIFELINE ULTRA-2 system will last at least five years and may last many more depending on environmental conditions. And since our LIFELINE systems are much more efficient in preventing graying, a simple wash-down is typically sufficient to prepare the surface for a maintenance coat of stain and or topcoat.

When am I ready to stain?

The first thing to do is to read the sections on surface preparation. Never attempt to apply stain to your home without first properly preparing the surface! Surface preparation is the most important step in the process. The next question is - do you have the proper tools for the job? Having good quality tools at your disposal gives you far better results and makes the job so much easier that it is foolish not to invest in them. LIFELINE stains and topcoats are formulated to be best applied with an airless sprayer using a 0.015 to 0.017 tip along with back-brushing. Although LIFELINE can be brush applied, it is more difficult to apply at the recommended application rate with a brush. We see more problems associated with heavily applied brush applications than we do with too thinly applied spray applications. Never attempt to apply LIFELINE stain with a pump-up compressed air sprayer! You will be very disappointed with the results. Even if you are going to use an airless sprayer you’ll still need brushes for back-brushing, touch up work, etc. Don’t buy cheap brushes! Good quality brushes like Purdy or Wooster brushes are well worth the price and end up giving you a much more attractive finish. LIFELINE stains are water-based which means that your brushes can be thoroughly cleaned with soap and water and, with a little care, can last many years. A brush extension for back-brushing high areas is also a handy device to have.

A paint mixer that fits into an electric drill is a good tool to use for making sure your stain and topcoat is adequately mixed prior to use. They are not expensive and make mixing a lot easier and quicker.

If you have areas to stain that are difficult to reach you will need some type of platform to stand on. When staining you never want to stop in the middle of a log (see How do I avoid lap marks?) It is extremely difficult if not impossible to reach an entire log from end to end from a single ladder. You can rent scaffolding or buy or rent ladder jacks and an aluminum plank to stand on. And get some ladder boots to avoid damaging the surface of the logs while you are staining.

The next thing you want to check is the weather. You don’t want to start staining if there is a chance of rain within 12 hours after completing the job. You also don’t want to stain a wall if it’s going to be in direct, hot sunlight during the staining process. If it’s a clear day and you are working on a south or west facing wall, start early in the morning before the sun starts beating on it. It’s better to work on a wall that’s a bit cool than it is on a wall that’s still hot from being exposed to the sun for most of the day. Although the labeled surface temperature range is between 40° F and 90° F, the most favorable temperature range for easiest application and best performance is 50° F to 80° F. Note that it’s surface temperature, not air temperature. It is the temperature of the logs that must be considered, not the temperature on the thermometer hanging on your porch. This is especially important up north during winter when you can get a nice warm February day but the logs are still frozen. You may need a few warm days before log temperatures reach the 40 degree range.

I put a coat of stain on my home a few years ago. Can I just put your stain on top of it?

This is not an easy question to answer since it depends on what kind of stain you used and what condition it is in. If you used an oil-based stain we recommend that you strip it off before applying any of our products. Fortunately, most one coat, oil-based stains come off fairly easily. After a few years all that remains is the pigments and pressure washing with a mild cleaner will typically remove them. Film forming, multi-coat oil-based stains are more difficult to remove so you’ll probably need to use some type of chemical finish remover along with pressure washing. You can also media blast your home but we consider media blasting to be a last resort when it comes to removing existing finishes.

If you used a water-based stain like our LIFELINE you need to establish what condition it is in by giving it a careful inspection. The results of that inspection will help you determine whether or not you need to strip the home down to bare wood.

Do you have any tips about using a pressure washer?

There are a couple of things you need to know about pressure washing. The first is to clean from the bottom up and rinse from the top down. Using this technique will avoid streaks and runs showing up when the wood dries. The second thing is that water WILL get inside the home. You will definitely test the sealant system of your home. While you are pressure washing have someone inside with some towels to soak up any water that may leak inside. While they are at it they should mark those leak spots for later inspection and sealing.

What is the procedure for applying LIFELINE stains and finishes?

LIFELINE is made to go on in thin coats. Do not flood the surface with stain. Put it on and brush it out as far as it will go making sure you get it into all of the nooks and crannies in the wood. Maintain a “wet edge” as you go along. That way you can blend in one stroke with the next. If you are applying LIFELINE with an airless sprayer, back-brushing is mandatory! Why? Application with an airless sprayer results in lots of little dots of stain covering the surface of the wood. You need to spread those dots out to create a continuous film over the entire surface so that water can’t come in contact with the wood. You also want to get the stain into all of the nooks and crannies. As you back-brush if your brush gets saturated with stain you are probably applying too much stain with the sprayer. Remember, thin coats are better than thick coats. Don’t worry if the first coat ends up looking a bit thin or splotchy. It’s the second coat that generates the color and consistency you are looking for.

What if my house is new? Do I still need to prepare the surface before staining?

Absolutely. No matter how much care is taken during the construction process, dirt, strap marks and other factors can create discolorations that need to be removed prior to staining. Logs that have been exposed to the sun may have gray areas on them and dust and mold spores are probably on most of the logs. It is crucial to start with a clean uniform surface before applying the first coat of stain. Cleaning also opens up the pores of the wood allowing better adhesion of the stain. This is especially true if the there is a mill glaze present on the logs. Not only will the mill glaze reduce the stain’s performance but caulks and chinking have a difficult time adhering to mill glazed wood.

Aggressive cleaning of a new home is not typically required. A light cleaning with Log Wash or a percarbonate cleaner like Wood ReNew will usually remove the dirt and mill glaze as well as clean the surface to prevent the formation of mold under the stain. We rarely recommend media blasting a new log home.

What is the best borate product to use?

It really depends on the situation. We currently have four different borate preservatives, Shell-Guard Concentrate, Shell-Guard RTU, Armor-Guard and Cobra Rods. Shell-Guard and Shell-Guard RTU are combinations of borate salts and glycols that help the borate penetrate into the wood. Since they get deep into the wood they are permanent treatments that only have to be applied one time. They are the most effective products for eliminating active infestations and providing the best protection against wood destroying organisms. Shell-Guard RTU is easier to use than Shell-Guard Concentrate since it does not have to be measured and mixed with water.

Armor-Guard is a borate powder that has to be dissolved in water at a rate of one pound per gallon for use. Since it does not contain any glycols it stays near the surface although it too migrates to areas of high moisture content. Armor-Guard should only be used on new, un-infested wood and since most of the borate remains near the surface of the wood, we recommend a re-application of Armor-Guard any time the home is stripped down to bare wood.

Cobra Rods are fused borate rods that are used for spot treating rot pockets or small areas showing signs of decay. Once inserted in place the rods will begin to dissolve and spread the active ingredients into the surrounding wood. This eliminates any active decay fungi and protects that area from further decay.

When should a borate solution be applied?

Shell-Guard RTU, Shell-Guard Concentrate and Armor-Guard are water-based preservatives so the surface of the wood must be free of anything that prevents water from being absorbed into the wood. This includes existing stains or finishes, oil, wax, and even dirt. In other words, the wood must be cleaned of anything that repels water. Logs that has been previously painted or stained will have to be stripped prior to treatment. Any method of stripping such as chemical, media blasting or pressure washing works as long as all of the coating is removed.

Even interior wood surfaces that have never had a finish applied to them may still need to be cleaned prior to treatment. Over a period of months and years cooking and other oils build up on interior surfaces and act as a water repellent. It will be necessary to remove this oil residue with a strong detergent or wood cleaner such as Log Wash before applying a borate solution.

New wood surfaces that are clean should be ready for treatment. Occasionally logs that have been milled have a surface or mill glaze on them that prevents water from readily penetrating into the wood. Roughing the surface by sanding or pressure washing usually opens the pores of the wood allowing the borate solution to be absorbed into the wood.

One way to check to see if a wood surface is ready for treatment is to spray some water on the wood. A plant mister works well. If the water beads up or does not soak into the wood within a minute or so, there is something present that will inhibit penetration. When checking for the presence of a water repellent pay particular attention to areas under roofs, porches, eaves and other sections of the home that are protected from the sun and weather. Water repellents last much longer in these protected areas.

If my home has been borate treated by the manufacturer do I still need to treat it on-site?

It depends. Some manufacturers treat the logs but do not treat log siding or other wood components that come along with the home. Check with the manufacturer to find out which components have not been treated and borate treat them on-site. If you get some of the borate solution on the already treated logs it won’t do any harm.